PROJECT: CHESS SET
BASECOAT
Avid collectors of chess sets look for rare, unique designs that stand out from mass-produced boards. For this project, we used the LI System to transform an oversized fiberglass chess set into a jaw-dropping, reflective showpiece.
The Spectra Chrome finish adds undeniable premium value – and taps into the huge market for exclusive, investment-grade collectibles.
Although not shown, each fiberglass piece was first prepared for spraying by sanding off any rough edges. We then applied a sandable primer, following the procedure outlined on the Filler and Sandable Primers section.
These chess pieces are the perfect size and shape for utilizing the turntable included with your LI System. The turntable allows you to easily rotate the part a full 360 degrees when applying the basecoat. We hold the pieces in place for processing using the Dynamic Stand mounting system from Spectra Chrome.
After basescoating, each part was immediately placed into the warm space; where it was allowed to air-dry overnight (with the heater turned off). The following day, the drying process was completed by “baking” dry with the heater on at 135 °F for 2 hours, then allowing to cool to room temperature in preparation for metalizing – as outlined in the Drying the Basecoat section.
Remember it is impossible to over-dry your basecoated parts. However, it is possible to under-dry them. Basecoat that has not dried thoroughly will not silver correctly, and will develop a “hazy” prism look in the silver deposit after topcoating.
PROJECT: CHESS SET
METAL SPRAY
After the chess pieces have dried thoroughly in the warm space, it is time to apply the metal spray layer. In the video, we show metalizing in front of our Open-Face Spray Booth (OFSB), which is coming soon. It provides the ideal ventilated workspace for applying all three layers of the Spectra Chrome finish.
The day of metalizing, the heater in the warm space was turned on low; so the temperature inside reached at least 75°F (but not exceeding 120°F) and the humidity dropped below 50% – allowing us to immediately transfer the freshly metalized parts into an ideal low-humidity environment for protection after spraying.
We mixed 600ml of metal spray solutions B1, B2, C1, and C2. However, we chose to mix only 300ml of Product A (sensitizer) chemistry.
The application of Product A is very fast, and uses only one wet coat – so you will use much less of the Product A solution overall, compared to products B and C. For this reason, we find that mixing only half the amount of Product A compared to the amount of Products B and C you plan to use is a great way to conserve your chemistry and minimize solution waste.
Each chess piece was taken directly from the warm space, and then sensitized, rinsed, metalized, rinsed, and blown dry.
The chess pieces are the perfect size and shape for utilizing the turntable included with your LI System. The turntable allows you to easily rotate the part a full 360 degrees when applying the metal spray solutions.
After blowing the part dry, we use paper towels to dry off any residual chemistry or rinse water from the Dynamic Stands as well. This prevents any moisture from dripping onto other adjacent parts inside the warm space.
After blowing dry, each piece was immediately moved into the warm space for protection.
Technically, freshly silvered parts can be topcoated immediately after blowing dry. It is OK to leave the “raw” silver layer inside the protected environment of the warm space for a few hours. However, even inside the warm space, the unprotected silver layer should not be left overnight – the initial “glossy/frosty” protective layer of Topcoat 311 (no color) should be applied the same day.
PROJECT: CHESS SET
TOPCOAT “GLOSSY / FROSTY”
As always, we must first protect the “raw” metal spray layer with a protective “glossy/frosty” coating of Topcoat 311 (no color). Remember, it is possible to apply the glossy/frosty coating immediately after silvering and blowing the part dry. In the video, we demonstrate this by showing the entire metalizing process one more time; then proceeding with the glossy/frosty layer immediately after.
It is perfectly normal to see variations in the glossy/frosty finish. The bishop (right) was left in the warm space for several hours before spraying. The residual warmth caused the topcoat to dry more quickly on contact; creating a more textured, frosty appearance. Conversely, the knight (left) was sprayed immediately after silvering, and took on a more glossy appearance. The final topcoat layer at the end of the process will “melt” any dry spray areas together and restore the perfect mirror reflection across all the pieces.
After spraying the glossy/frosty layer, we immediately returned the parts to the warm space to air dry (with the heater turned off) overnight. Once dry, the silver layer is protected – parts can be left in the warm space with the glossy/frosty finish for several days if needed.
PROJECT: CHESS SET
TOPCOAT COLORS AND FINAL CLEAR
We wanted to give this chess set a unique gold and chrome color scheme. To enhance the custom look even further, the base of each chess piece was sprayed with a black chrome accent color.
For this project, we prepared four separate mixtures of Topcoat 311 – as outlined in the Topcoat Mixing Procedure section.
TOPCOAT 311 (NO COLOR)
We prepared (2) volumes of mixed Topcoat 311 (no color) for use as the final clear. The mixture was poured into a DPC liner and set aside.
TOPCOAT 311 (GOLD COLOR)
We prepared another (2) volumes of mixed Topcoat 311 to be used as our gold color. This is the same gold color used in the Gringotts Gold Bars project – created by adding (6) drops of yellow tint, (3) drops of orange tint, and (2) drops of red tint to our mixed Topcoat 311. After stirring, the mixture was poured into a DPC liner and set aside.
TOPCOAT 311 (CHROME COLOR)
We prepared another (2) volumes of mixed Topcoat 311 to be used as our chrome color. The chrome color was created by adding (1) drop of blue tint and (1) drop of violet tint to our mixed Topcoat 311. After stirring, the mixture was poured into a separate DPC liner and set aside.
TOPCOAT 311 (BLACK COLOR)
Finally, we prepared another (2) volumes of mixed Topcoat 311 to be used as a black chrome accent color; which will be applied to the base of each chess piece. To achieve a very deep black, we add (8) drops of black tint to our mixed Topcoat 311. After stirring, the mixture was poured into a separate DPC liner.
Our four Topcoat 311 mixtures – gold, black, chrome, and no color – are ready to spray.
The 24kt gold look is achieved by applying (3) light “dusty” coats of Topcoat 311 (gold color) with no flash time in between. Remember, it is important to build up the color intensity slowly, using several light coats – if too much gold color is applied too heavily, the final appearance may lean toward orange.
Once the desired gold color is achieved, we immediately return each piece to the warm space (with the heater turned off) for protection as they await the final layer of Topcoat 311 (no color).
We swapped in our Topcoat 311 (chrome color) by following the lacquer thinner spray gun cleaning procedure, as shown in the Topcoating Practice Tiles section.
As explained in the Applying the Chrome Color section, Topcoat 311 contains strong UV inhibitors, which impart a slight yellow hue when applied over the raw silver. To compensate for this yellowing, and match the appearance of real tank-plated chrome, we will apply a dusting of chrome color to counteract the yellowing.
One very light “dusty” coat is all that is needed to adjust the color to a perfect chrome hue. Less is more when applying the chrome color – too much chrome color may cause the final appearance to look blue.
The difference of adding the chrome color is easy to notice when viewed side-by-side. The bishop (right) has been given a light coating of chrome color; and appears noticeably less yellow than the queen (left), which has not yet been color corrected.
After spraying the chrome color, we immediately return each piece to the warm space (with the heater turned off) for protection as they await the final layer of Topcoat 311 (no color).
After spraying the gold and chrome color, we added a black chrome accent to the base of each piece to enhance the custom look. We swapped in our Topcoat 311 (black color) by following the lacquer thinner spray gun cleaning procedure, as shown in the Topcoating Practice Tiles section.
As demonstrated in the Monopoly project, we adjusted the spray gun to spray like an airbrush for precise control of the color application. The fan pattern of the spray gun was narrowed, and the incoming air pressure was lowered to around 10-15 PSI.
Once again, the turntable included with the LI System let us easily rotate the pieces when spraying.
NOTE: During the process of spraying the black color, we decided to add more drops of black tint to our black chrome mixture; to achieve a deeper black color in less coats. The topcoat color concentration is freely adjustable and adaptable to the needs of your project.
The project concludes by swapping in our Topcoat 311 (no color) by following the lacquer thinner spray gun cleaning procedure, as shown in the Topcoating Practice Tiles section.
A final layer of Topcoat 311 (no color) was applied to each piece – this final layer “wets out” any dry-spray areas, and brings out the glossy shine, maximum reflection, and provides UV protection and scratch resistance.
Immediately after spraying, each part was returned to the warm space to air dry overnight (with the heater turned off). Wait at least 24 hours before handling your parts. The Spectra Chrome finish takes several days to fully cure.